I must start this post by congratulating Soph' on her fantastic GCSE results which she received this morning and sent to me by text. I managed to speak to her from the top of a mountain soon after and she was very excited. But I don't envy her doing 'A' level maths next year, the memory still brings me out in a rash.
Today started in a perfectly ordinary way. I passed the emus, said hello to a girl taking two donkeys for a walk, strolled alongside the llamas' enclosure, passed the 'Rocks of Wales' garden, walked between the legs of a plastic brontosaurus and into the Showcaves cafe for breakfast. After breakfast the caves themselves were now open and people were beginning to arrive, so I walked again between the legs of the brontosaurus (this time dodging small children), again passed the criminally ignored 'Rocks of Wales' garden, strolled again alongside the llamas' enclosure (noticing this time that just one of them had a colourful coat on - there's a musical there), reached the emus but this time headed for the exit, and an enormous pig in a field.
The 'Rocks of Wales' garden - underrated.
I had actually had a peaceful night in a campsite for the first time on this trip, but seemed tired and sluggish walking to begin with (I really am Slugman!). I had decided to take the high route recommended by the pub landlord last night, despite his worryingly dry sense of humour, and it was superb, not least because I saw the biggest slug I've ever seen on the path. In fact everything about today was superb (if I have one criticism it's an odd one - at 10.5 miles it isn't a long enough day, but is hard to lengthen), the paths, the landscape, the weather, perfect. The weather bit means perfect for walking, not sunbathing, it was cloudy and cool but never really threatened rain until the very end, when it didn't matter anyway and then didn't rain anyway. The high level route took me up Fan Hir, the first of the Carmarthen Fans, part of the Black Mountain. This small range, with it's steep cliffs to the north, is a stunner, and in my opinion the real jewel in the crown of the Brecon Beacons (rather than Pen y Fan). I had heard that the area was beautiful but was still taken aback.
The Carmarthen Fans, looking ahead......
......and looking back.
As today was short I slowed down considerably once on top, as I knew I had a straightforward ridge walk that I could make as long or as short as I wanted. So I made it long, with several stops. After the very long ridge of Fan Hir the route passed over the high point of Fan Brycheiniog (802m, 2631ft), Fan Foel and Picws Du (at which point I received Sophie's text) with constantly brilliant views, then gradually descended. I stopped for lunch in a slightly precarious spot near the edge of a cliff, but it was sheltered with superb views. I checked the time on my watch and happened to notice my altitude - 666m. So I moved!
Later I took a detour to visit Llyn y Fan Fach (that's a lake, English folk) which inspired a great story, the Lady of the Lake (Google it!). She didn't appear so I headed for my accommodation, the youth hostel at Llanddeusant. I was now in pretty remote hill country, and was considering what emergency supplies I had when, incredibly, I came to the Farmyard Cafe! How does this keep happening?! I'd timed it perfectly because the owner had a batch of scones in the oven, which would be ready in 15 minutes. I waited with a cafetiere, wondering exactly why I had bothered bringing emergency supplies.
When I reached the youth hostel Roger and James from the pub last night were already there, but it wasn't open yet. It's strange how attitudes even to walking amongst walkers can differ. I like to set off at about 10 and walk late. They start at 7. For me the walk is the whole day. For them they like to finish early and have the rest of the day for other things. This meant that they started 3 hours ahead of me today, so could have done well over half of the walk before I even noticed the llama with its coat of many colours. I did though wonder how long they'd been waiting outside the hostel when I arrived at 4 (which for me was very early). At the precise moment I got there the wardens opened the door and I was in, then straight out again. I had decided that I really had, and I mean REALLY HAD, to celebrate Soph's results with a beer. Well it would have been rude not to. However this was the one night of the entire walk when there were no accessible alcoholic drinks. Or were there? I was only just over a mile from the Red Kite Feeding Centre we went to on my rest day, and they had beer! I dumped my pack and scuttled downhill then uphill and made it on time, only at that exact moment to bump into the Belgian couple I had met in Llanthony who had also started the Beacons Way. Unfortunately the girl had picked up a knee injury and they'd had to stop after 3 days. It was great to see them though and they seemed pleased that I was still going. And they'd seen the red kites doing their swooping thing. AND they'd found a campsite in Crickhowell on the same night as me that didn't have an enormous fight and a visit from 3 police cars.
Anyway I got my beer and cooked an astonishing meal - Tesco dried pasta with chicken and mushroom, accompanied by Beanfeast bolognaise. For dessert I had some mixed nuts. The hostel is another fab one and I'm now sitting in the communal living area and one of the wardens has lit the log fire. It's all very cosy.
But here's the bit I can't get my head round. The YHA take on volunteer wardens in some hostels. You go on a training course, then are given a week in a small hostel (which this most certainly is) to see how you get on. The couple from Leicester acting as wardens this week are doing it for the first time, but they're both teachers! Are they mad? They're both back in work next week, what kind of a holiday is that? Mind you it would be very easy to say the same about me.
Tomorrow is the last whole day, and generally considered to be the hardest to navigate in poor weather. And the forecast for tomorrow is poor. So I may disappear into the wilderness, never to return. Or I may be kept alive by a convenient string of previously undiscovered cafes and pubs.
-- Posted from Kev's iPhone
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